Woodland paths, riverside meadows, and one of Britain’s most impressive canal structures combine on this rewarding circular walk linking three historic villages with three welcoming places to pause for lunch, a drink or refreshments along the way…
Recently named as the best city in the world for green spaces and nature, by Time Out and Intrepid Travel, Bath spoils us with multiple walking routes right on our doorstep. However, there are few walks in our area that pack so much variety into a such a manageable distance as the Two Valleys walk. Exploring some of the most picturesque countryside in the Frome and Avon valleys, through ancient woodland and quiet waterside paths this route takes you through the historic, industrial hamlets of Avoncliff and Iford, finishing in Freshford.
This is an excellent place to pause and spot wildlife, from the fish in the river,
to kingfishers, otters, beavers, egret, heron and much more.
A short hop on the train to the hamlet of Avoncliff (make sure you are in the right carriage to be able to exit!) just 2 stops from Bath, sees you step off into a platform surrounded only by countryside and the magnificent Avoncliff Aqueduct, over 100m long, towering over you.
Head up the stairs off the platform and cross this impressive feat of engineering over the railway and River Avon, enjoying the narrowboats gently wending their way over it on the canal. With no road through Avoncliff, it as a peaceful spot full of nature.
Take stock of it all with a refreshing pint from the recently re-opened Cross Guns at Avoncliff. Serving drinks since c. 1610 this pub has recently been taken over by William and Marianne Cartwright-Hignett from nearby Iford. Championing local breweries and their own Iford Cider there is a good selection of ales, lager and cider on tap. Don’t miss the Two Valley lager, created by William in association with True Story Brewery in Westbury. Exclusively available here and sister pub, The Inn at Freshford (which features later in the walk).
With pub renovations ongoing, food this year is served from The Shack, although the name belies the kitchen that has been installed and the quality of the food served. Cheeseburgers made with beef grazed on the Iford Estate in the next valley (vegetarian burgers also available!) and baps freshly baked at the Iford Bakery, are perfect for fuelling up before a walk. Fries, focaccia, buddha bowls are also available, or soft serve ice-cream with waffles for those with a sweeter tooth.
The Shack is found in the pub’s large beer garden, which extends down to the River Avon. Nestled between the aqueduct and the impressive Avoncliff weir, it is a wonderful spot to sit and enjoy nature. The swans often swim by, and the cows on the opposite banks come down to drink.
When you can finally bring yourself to leave this special place, head under the aqueduct and follow the road round to the left to head up the hill towards Westwood. Partway up the hill, as the road bends to the left, look out for a footpath and continue along this into the woodland, heading up the hill. The climb is gentle, but rewarding, with glimpses across the landscape and the river below.
At the end of the footpath, turn left onto the small road and continue until it reaches Upper Westwood Road. Turn right and keep an eye out for a bridlepath on your left. It is hard to spot as it is a track that looks like a driveway between two houses. You will find it just after the ‘Road Narrows’ sign on your left and opposite house number 139. Follow that bridlepath until it ends when it meets Westwood Road.
Turn left, passing Iford Cider Taproom on your right, and follow the Iford Manor Estate wall the junction with Iford Hill, where the Manor’s top gates are located. Turn right and walk down the hill towards Iford.
Iford is one of the highlights of the walk. Tucked beside the River Frome, the hamlet has a timeless quality with stone cottages, narrow lanes and the celebrated Iford Manor whose gardens are regarded as the finest in the country. This is an ideal point to pause and enjoy home-made pastries, lunches and cakes from the Iford bakery, often with ingredients sourced from the Estate, in Iford Manor Café’s sunny, walled courtyard reminiscent of the Mediterranean. Alternatively, for a fine-dining experience, Iford Manor Kitchen is your best option. A reservation is usually needed for the restaurant, but no reservations are taken for the cafe.
Once you are ready for the next leg of your walk, head along to the bridge at Iford with Britannia overlooking the Frome. This is an excellent place to pause and spot wildlife, from the fish in the river, to kingfishers, otters, beavers, egret, heron and much more. Cross the bridge and just after Iford Mill on your right, you will see a field gate with a stile and pedestrian gate.
Follow the marked path and enjoy the expansive views down the valley. Watch for birds of prey soaring, hares and deer as well as wild flowers when walking through this field. Please do keep dogs close and stick to the path to help protect the many endangered species that are resident here.
Entering the ancient Friary Wood the atmosphere and climate change as the trees tower over you. At the hamlet of Friary, with its fascinating historical information board, turn left and almost immediately right then up some steps to continue on the path. It is now a bridlepath and runs along the bottom of the woodland. At the end of the path, turn right and follow the road until you reach a bridge.
Don’t cross the bridge, but take the footpath on your left through the fields. Keep right at the fork and you will arrive at the outskirts of Freshford with The Inn just over the bridge waiting to welcome you.
A natural stopping point for centuries, inside you will find a cosy bar area for drinks and bar snacks, or a dining area for traditional, quality, pub fare with a modern twist. The garden has been under renovation by the team from Iford Manor, due to be reopened imminently, from where you can enjoy this special space.
From here, you can either end your walk with a short stroll to Freshford station, or walk back to the Freshford bridge and take the footpath on your left. This follows the shores of the River Avon back along to Avoncliff, where you can jump back on a train, or maybe treat yourself to that waffle with soft serve and a well-deserved final pint at The Cross Guns before heading home.
The circular walk takes one and a half to two hours, but leave plenty of time for refreshment stops, wildlife spotting and simply taking in the history, architecture and views along the way.
theinnatfreshford.com | ifordmanor.co.uk | crossgunsavoncliff.com