Minchinhampton is an ancient hilltop town of narrow streets and sweeping common land. This month Andrew Swift guides us through historic lanes and quiet valleys in the wider landscape of the Cotswolds, especially beautiful in late spring.
Minchinhampton is a small and ancient town of narrow streets, high on a Cotswold hilltop and surrounded by a vast common. Originally it was simply called Hampton, but after Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, granted it to the nuns of Caen Abbey in Normandy, ‘minchen’ – the Old English word for nun – was added to its name. It grew rich, like so much of the Cotswolds, from wool and weaving, but the trade collapsed in the early 19th century, when water and steam-powered woollen mills were built beside fast-flowing streams in the valleys below. Stagnation brought its own rewards, however, for Minchinhampton escaped the ravages of Victorian development, making it ripe for rediscovery when the charm and value of older ways and older buildings came to be appreciated once again.
Even so, it lies well off the tourist track, amid a network of narrow lanes, leaving it for the more discerning visitor to discover its delights, and to explore the sublime countryside in which it is set. And there is no better time than late spring to visit, when purple orchids, buttercups and cowslips dot Minchinhampton Common, skylarks trill high above, and bluebells and wild garlic cloak the woodland floor.
To whet your appetite, here is a choice of two short walks – the first (3.25 miles long) is relatively straightforward; the second (4.5 miles long) starts by following the same route before venturing into the valley below, and is more challenging, with tricky stiles, lack of waymarks and a difficult stream crossing.
Both start at the High Street, in the centre of Minchinhampton. Free parking is available (on the edge of Minchinhampton Common) by following signs along Bell Lane, at the north-west end of the High Street. Bell Lane also leads past Holy Trinity Church, one of the glories of Minchinhampton, which is well worth a visit before or after the walk.
The High Street is where you will find a pub (the 17th-century Crown Inn) and a café, along with the Market House, built in 1698 and supported on stone columns. Arden House and Old Hall, to the left of the Crown, are even older, as the Tudor roses in the stops of the dripmould over their shared entrance suggest. There was once another pub in this street of splendid buildings – the White Hart, on the east side, which closed over a century ago, and is now the post office.
At the end of the High Street, cross to head straight on along Well Hill, which is lined with more grand buildings. After it starts dropping downhill, you pass another of Minchinhampton’s lost pubs – Rowleys at No 19 was the Royal Oak, which closed in 1907. Just below it, look out for some intriguing carvings on the wall of Wishing Cottage, before turning right along King Street, which, after leading through a kissing gate (KG), dwindles to a narrow path climbing past former weavers’ cottages. The views southward over the Avening Valley from here are magnificent.
At the top, another surprise awaits, as you turn right under a bridge to follow a sunken footpath through two tunnels, constructed to screen the view of the landscaped gardens of a mansion called the Lammas from prying eyes.
At the end, go through a KG, cross and turn left along Windmill Road (SO869007). Take the first right along Dr Brown’s Road, and after 400m, just past Hunter’s Lodge, turn left to follow a path beside a wall. Here you are on the edge of Minchinhampton Common, and the rampart running parallel to the wall is part of a massive Iron Age bank which almost encircles the town.
Continue alongside the wall, but, after passing a house called Westfield, where the wall turns left, carry straight on, heading to the right of the group of buildings ahead. At the road, cross and carry on with a wall on your left (SO860011). After 200m, follow the wall as it curves south, and after another 500m, when you come to a bench between two trees, cross the road and head for the pale stone double-gabled building straight ahead (SO860003). Follow the wall to the left of it, go through a squeeze stile in the corner and head down a walled path.
At the bottom, turn left along a lane through the village of Box. The church of St Barnabas, on the right, with stained-glass windows by Edward Payne, who lived nearby, dates from 1952.
After another 200m, follow the lane as it turns left for a short distance, before turning right to follow a footpath sign for Longfords (SO863000).
After 100m, you come to a wooden KG on the left. If you want to opt for the short walk, go through it and carry on along a path for 500m. When you come to a road, turn right, take the first left and, after passing Gardener’s Cottage (SO869000), turn left again to follow a lane back up to Minchinhampton.
For the longer walk, carry on past the wooden KG, go through a metal KG on the left a few metres further on and head along a walled path. When you come to a drive, continue down it. At the bottom, turn right along a lane for 75m, before turning left to follow a sign for Longford’s Mill.
After 300m, as the lane widens to reveal a group of large buildings ahead, you will see a drive on the left with a footpath sign (SO867992). Before turning along it, carry on to see Longford’s Mill, one of the largest and most attractive former mill complexes in the Cotswolds.
There has been a mill here for over 700 years, but, although several of the buildings you see today date from the 18th century or even earlier, most were part of a massive expansion following the creation of a large dam in 1806. Production of cloth ceased here in 1990 and since then many of the buildings have been converted to housing, although some still lie empty.
Head back to the footpath sign, set off along the drive, and, after crossing two stiles beside farm gates, bear right to follow a footpath sign alongside a stream. This hidden valley is a delight, especially in spring, even though some of the stiles you encounter may be somewhat tricky.
After 600m the path leads into a meadow, with the stream snaking across it (ST870998). Stepping stones across the stream seem to have been dislodged by winter rains and, when I visited a few weeks ago, I had to take advantage of a handily wedged log to get across. Although I managed it without getting my feet wet, you have been warned!
Once across it, a stile leads into another meadow where you cross the stream again – this time by a bridge. Here, where the stream branches, bear left to follow a track past a footpath signpost (which, when I visited, was lying on the ground) and over another stile (ST871999).
The path now leads up a steep combe, where the stream tumbles down past banks of wild garlic. The setting is glorious, but the path is narrow, rough and slippery, with several more stiles. After a while, it branches away from the stream and starts climbing in earnest.
When you emerge in a meadow, bear left. After crossing the stream, you will see a pond below you on the left. Carry on up the field in the same direction, heading for a stile in the wall at the top (SO869001). After crossing the stile, turn right along the lane to head back up to Minchinhampton.
Length of walk: Four miles
Accessibility: Extreme care is needed on rough and slippery tracks, especially those heading downhill.
Map: OS Explorer 142
Andrew Swift’s books on walking in around Bath can be found at www.akemanpress.com