The grass is Green-er where you water it. And if by water it you mean fill it with hungry Bathonians, a live band, a no-nonsense, pizza-focused menu and a generous happy hour, you might be on to something. At least, that’s the logic behind Green Park Brasserie. India Farnham saves you a seat at this buzzing neighbourhood hangout and reports back on the good times had. All image credits: Green Park Brasserie
I have always loved a local success story. Especially when it involves a fiercely independent family business. I mean, come on. What’s not to love? For that reason, I’m pleased to report the story of Green Park Brasserie has become a new favourite. It goes like so: in 1991, Andrew Peters, a specialist in restaurant start-ups and turn-arounds (who had previously run several successful restaurants in London) was looking for a new location. That’s when he came across Green Park Café, set in what was once the great booking hall of the Green Park railway station in Bath. Defined by its lofty ceilings, Victorian architecture, and sprawling proportions, Green Park Café’s location was an effortlessly special one. Andrew had found what he was looking for.
His plan? Turn the business around quickly and sell it off within two or three years.
My dining partner was a long-term best mate with whom I was extremely due a catch up and a giggle. GPB proved itself to be an exceptionally worthy backdrop for this occasion.
I’ve already told you this is a success story, so I’m going to cut to the chase here. The Peters (that’s right, Andrew is now a co-director of the business with his son, Alex) did not sell the place in a couple of years. Instead, they stayed, they worked, they fell in love with the business, and they built Green Park Brasserie up to what it is today: a must-visit bar and restaurant, recommended by Lonely Planet, The Times and National Geographic Travel, and known for its four nights of live music every week.
I told you the story was good. Now, 34 years since it opened, does Green Park Brasserie retain its excellence?
The warm up
The sun wasn’t on the menu on the rainy Friday evening I visited Green Park Brasserie (GPB), so my dining partner and I opted to sit indoors, nestled in the corner of a handy elevated platform overlooking the live band and the full restaurant.
However, if you’re planning on heading over on a day with clear skies, ‘the Braz’ is known for its outdoor terrace, which, judging by its popularity in the summer, is absolutely the place to be to enjoy an impromptu happy hour (which, at GPB, runs every day from 12pm–5pm. £6 Spritzes all afternoon? Yes please.)
You’ll be pleased to know that the less-than-perfect weather conditions did not stop me enjoying a cocktail of my own. Purely for research purposes, of course. My evening kicked off with a fizzy Bellini from the House Cocktails menu, the perfect tipple to match the sense of Friday-evening magic in the air and to peruse the extensive, French-brasserie inspired menu.
In the Green
Speaking of the menu – it’s a hearty one, ranging from burgers to pasta to create-your-own pizzas and fusing both British and European classics. Both GPB and its sister business, The Bath Pizza Co, source their ingredients locally from Somerset farmers and producers (who also stock their stuff at Bath Farmers’ Market, held every Saturday on GPB’s doorstep), which makes choosing even harder. But never impossible.
We opted for the Spinaci Pizza (which I’m still thinking about – those toppings!), the special Steak (which came with generous dollop of garlic butter) a portion of fries, and the classic Garlic Bread, a cheesier take on the classic crowd-pleaser. Oh, and a remarkably good Pesto Aioli Dip. For dipping crusts, obvs.
Of course, for such a well-loved restaurant, I had to bring only the best company. Thus, my GPB dining partner was a long-term best mate with whom I was extremely due a catch up and a giggle. GPB proved itself to be an exceptionally worthy backdrop for this occasion. Food is served swiftly and simply in generous portions by a team of staff members who are genuinely happy to be weaving in and out of tables and chatting to the diners. The relaxed, buzzy atmosphere in the space, contributed to both by the fabulous live band and (I’m sure) the fully-stocked bar, is only emphasised by the plethora of groups I could see – from families to couples to colleagues – having a jolly good time.
For such a large space, there’s a real feeling of community within GPB’s walls. Sitting there with a loved one and sipping something delicious on a Friday night – you’ll get the sense that you’re right where you should be. It’s glorious. And yes, I can confirm: a catch up and a giggle were had. I dare say this is a Bath institution that’s only getting better.
Green Park Brasserie. 6 Green Park Station, Bath BA1 1JB
greenparkbrasserie.com
Opening times: 12pm–11pm; Friday & Saturday: 11am–11pm