Wild things: discover wild swimming spots in Bath

Georgie Duckworth shares one of her favourite local wild swimming walks in this extract from her new book, Wild Swimming Walks Bristol and Bath (words and images by Georgie Duckworth).

With all the charm, splendour and magnificent architecture you expect from Bath, this walk, just to the east of the city, has a distinct wow factor.

The iconic landmark of Warleigh Weir has been a popular place for a dip for well over a century, and rightly so – it’s absolutely beautiful. But do you know Dundas Aqueduct? I guided a group of wild swim-walkers around this route, and we greatly enjoyed swimming at both spots. Some preferred the sheer magnificence of the weir, while others favoured the tranquility of the aqueduct. But why choose one when you can experience both? On this route, you can swim in both places and decide for yourself which is best.

Starting at the Angelfish Café at Brassknocker Basin, the first stretch of this walk follows the Somerset Coal Canal. This was once a busy coal-transporting route, but it became increasingly obsolete as the railway network grew in the late 19th century. The vast majority of this canal, which stretches ten miles west to Paulton, is in disrepair, but this small stretch was restored during the 1980s.

Five minutes along the canal path, you’ll arrive at Dundas Wharf, where the Somerset Coal Canal joins the Kennet & Avon Canal in a wide basin, usually full of narrowboats. Here, you’ll walk across the truly spectacular aqueduct. Completed in 1805, this high, three-arched bridge seems to defy gravity by carrying the canal over the River Avon. It’s a mind-blowing feat of engineering designed by architect John Rennie – read the information board and learn about the aqueduct’s history.

Looking down to the river from up high on the aqueduct, the water looks particularly inviting, and there’s a great swim spot just below. Head down to find the wide steps in front of the Monkton Combe School boathouse. The river at the bottom of the steps is shallow, so you can wade out quite easily to where the water gets deeper. The current was gentle, and we swam upstream underneath the aqueduct.

Back on the path, you’ll cross the lock gate at Dundas Wharf and then begin the climb up Brassknocker Hill where you can pause for a moment on the way up to enjoy the stunning views down the valley.

Claverton Down at the top of the hill is a fine example of Bath’s open green spaces. Though predominantly a grassy plateau, the Down is also dotted with patches of woodland. One such patch is Long Wood, which has the most incredible natural play area as well as an ‘Elf and Fairy Foray’. According to the National Trust, this wood is home to a large colony of elves and fairies, and you’ll likely spot a few fairy doors, all decorated with paintings and glitter, as you wander through the trees. This is undoubtedly a great place for kids, but there’s no reason why adults can’t join in too!

Out on the plateau, you may notice how straight the path becomes. This is known as The Balcony and is part of an 18th-century carriage drive that would have been popular with the wealthy residents of Bath.

Claverton Down was also once the site of an isolation hospital. Before the days of antibiotics, those afflicted with contagious illnesses would have been sent here in an attempt to contain the spread of disease. It’s said that chef Mary Berry was sent here in the 1950s when she contracted polio at the age of 13.

Heading down the winding country lane towards the pretty village of Claverton, you’ll pass Dick Willows cider farm, which hosts some brilliant open days during the summer. Continuing down towards the river, you’ll cross both the canal and the railway line before arriving at Warleigh Weir.

If you’ve not been to the weir before, you’ll likely be struck first by its beauty, then perhaps by the number of people here. Sadly, this is a wild swimming spot with some challenges. Since it was built between 1809 and 1813, it’s been a popular place for swimmers. In recent years, however, this popularity has ballooned, and the weir, plus its surrounding meadows, have been plagued by litter, parking problems and anti-social behaviour.

In 2018, wild swimming campaigner and enthusiast Johnny Palmer bought the weir and its neighbouring meadow, known as the Island. He set up the ‘Warleigh Weir Project’, which aims to obtain designated bathing status for the weir so that everyone can swim safely here. Another objective of the project is to encourage people to take better care when visiting. Now, through signs, council-provided bins and volunteer wardens, the land is looking in better nick; we can only hope it continues this way. If you see any litter, please do pick it up and take it with you.

On the day of our swim, other people were around, but it wasn’t overly crowded, and there was plenty of space for us all to enjoy the water. We sat for a picnic before changing and heading in for a swim. The water is shallow at first and only really deepens as you reach the far side of the weir. You can also swim from the ferryman’s steps just downstream of the weir. We decided to perch on the weir to enjoy the sunshine and the sound of the rushing water. It really is a beautiful place to watch the world go by. The handful of people around us were either sitting peacefully on the weir or giggling nervously as they dunked down into the cool water.

Deciding we’d had our turn, it was time to move on. We joined the canal path heading south back towards Dundas. I always love walking the canal path and admiring the array of narrowboats; some are neat-and-tidy holiday boats, while others are houseboats brimming with character – plants, children, dogs, chickens, bicycles, dinosaur skeletons… the works! Before reaching Dundas, we were pleased to pass the Dawdling Dairy narrowboat, which sells ice cream from a hatch. It may just be a scoop from a tub of Wall’s ice cream, but on a hot day, it was very welcome.

Reaching Dundas Wharf, you’ll cross over the little bridge, skirt the basin (passing the small tollhouse, warehouse, and crane) before crossing the lock gate again and retracing your steps back to Brassknocker Basin and the Angelfish Café.