The Circus Restaurant blends Georgian elegance with modern charm. With seasonal fare, a warm service, and a welcoming buzz, it’s a beloved local gastro gem, says Emma Clegg.
Tucked between two of Bath’s most iconic landmarks, The Circus and The Royal Crescent, The Circus Restaurant enjoys one of the city’s most enviable spots on Brock Street. It’s the kind of place that captures the charm of its Georgian surroundings without a hint of pretension.
Set over two floors in a beautiful period building, the restaurant offers a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere with classic English decor, high ceilings, wooden parquet floors and a low-key buzz that makes it an authentic and refined refuge. Whether you’re visiting Bath for the first time or you’ve lived here for years, The Circus draws you in with its thoughtful, seasonal menu – five starters, seven mains and a supportive handful of sides, all focused on quality.
The Circus has become something of a Bath institution. Originally run by the Golden family, it was taken over in 2021 by the Lisanti brothers – Matthew Lisanti was previously the head chef – and since then the restaurant has only grown in reputation, continuing to serve a modern European menu built around seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. The passion in the kitchen clearly translates to the table: the food is beautifully prepared, the service is warm, and the vibe is effortless and comfortable. It’s the kind of place where lunch might just turn into dinner, and no one would blame you for booking in twice.
As John Wood the Elder knew only too well, in Ancient Rome the ‘Circus’ was a circular arena surrounded by tiers of seats in which public entertainments were held. In its role as a place of gastronomic entertainment, you could conceive of this place as having a connection to this ancient history (a melange, if you like, of the entertainment provided by Roman gladiators and of luxurious Roman banquets designed to impress its guests).
We were not gladiators or part of a raucous, baying crowd, but we were an audience looking for a food spectacle, and The Circus did not disappoint. The dishes were outstandingly beautiful and the starters were served on delectable textured and coloured bowls and plates.
The Leek and Potato Soup with garlic zeppola was a smooth, substantial and comforting taste experience, combined with a selection of delicate, airy breads including charcoal and turmeric bread. My choice, Carrot and Courgette Fritters with sumac aubergine dip, pomegranate and pickles, was a welcome option for a low-carb preference, with its crispy vegetable packages served with a zing of pickle and the uplifting freshness of pomegranate. Both gave visual flair to dishes that also delivered generously on flavour, and didn’t spoil the appetite.
If we had been citizens in Ancient Rome (or Aquae Sulis, just for authenticity), those versions of ourselves would have enjoyed the medium rare pan-fried Flat Iron Steak served with chimichurri, crispy shallots and watercress, just as much as our modern personas.
The Fish of the Day was hake with a mild curry on a bed of swede champ (the latter an optional swap suggested by our waitress, for the salt-baked new potatoes). For dessert, seasonal cheeses brought Somerset Solstice (semi-soft), Barbers 1833 vintage Cheddar and the sweet and punchy Devon Blue, served with delicate, just crumbly enough crackers.
The Dark Chocolate Fondant delivered on a more sweetly indulgent level with its banoffee ganache, Chantilly sauce, oat crumb and glazed banana.
The confidence and colourful lure of the dishes and the delicate textures and delectable flavours we encountered were testament to an accomplished gastronomic team who know how to deliver dishes with finesse and flair. No gladiatorial fighting; just gastro experts on top of their game.
During Bath Restaurant Week (3–11 May) The Circus are offering a 3-course set menu, served with canapés, £40 for Lunch and Dinner from Mon to Sat.
Circus Restaurant, 34 Brock Street, Bath BA1 2LN; open Mon to Fri 10am-11pm; Sat 10am-12am (closed Sun)