Ditch the cornflakes, trash the toast, and move that muesli. Indian breakfasts have arrived at Bandook restaurant in Bath and promise something special, says India Farnham
It’s well known that us Brits love Indian cuisine. Whether out or in, we’ll tuck into a biryani, a samosa, or a curry with aplomb. Most of us have a favourite Indian takeaway and can reel off our order like Smithy in that Gavin and Stacey episode.
So, when I write the words ‘Indian breakfast’, what’s coming to mind? And no, I’m not considering reheating last night’s chicken dhansak in the microwave at 2pm (let’s leave our student days in the past). I’m talking about a surprising and delicious new culinary trend that’s arrived in Bath ready to prove that Indian flavours really shouldn’t be confined to purely lunch and dinnertime.
Breakfast is the newest offering from Bandook, a restaurant which, since its opening in 2019, has undoubtedly become a cornerstone of our city’s culinary landscape. Bandook is inspired by the cultural infusion of the Raj era when British and Indian troops would eat together – a period that is referenced in the restaurant’s playful and nostalgic interior. Despite these colonial undertones, Bandook’s outlook on this shared history is kind and thoughtful, winning a spot as one of Bath’s most-loved restaurants through its elevated mix of authentic, casual dining Indian street food dishes made with ‘good, British ingredients’.
Heading to the restaurant on a Tuesday morning, my dining partner Rosanna and I were pleased to find the hustle and bustle of the city fade away as we stepped into Milsom Place, where you’ll find Bandook tucked away, just off the fashionable Milsom Street.
People say that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and we were presented with a menu that takes this responsibility seriously. With glee, we spotted familiar British breakfast items mingling with the selection of Indian dishes: baked beans are reinvented as Masala Beans, and hash browns get a spicy makeover as Aloo Browns. If you’re not ready to stray too far from tradition, Bandook also offers a Full English, with a veggie option too, but I think after reading the prologue to the menu, which explains the importance of a traditional Indian breakfast, a Nashta, in bringing the family together, you’ll feel otherwise.
First up for us were two sweet Masala chais, served frothy and steaming alongside two slices of still-warm Almond & Cardamom Madeira cake. The chai’s warm, aromatic sweetness elicited an immediate “Mmm” from both parties; its gutsy spiciness making my usual morning Earl Gray feel as grey and drab as the English drizzle. We gobbled up our cake (which was nothing short of perfection – light and airy with a subtle nutty tang) in eager anticipation of the main event, an excitement only intensified by our proximity to the restaurant’s open kitchen.
Above: (left to right) Bombay Breakfast, Savoury Uttapam
Onto our main courses (which feels somewhat indulgent to say at 10.30am on a Tuesday, but there we are). Rosanna opted for the Savoury Uttapam: three delightfully light pancakes made of a batter using rice and urad dal, served alongside a traditional sambar and a sweet and spicy tomato chutney. Ever the fan of alliteration, I went for the Bombay Breakfast, which consisted of a Paratha Pocket filled with silky, spiced scrambled eggs and a pot of Masala Beans. We both noted that any fears of an Indian breakfast being too heavy or stodgy had been immediately quashed; the food presented to us was fresh and in well-judged portion sizes. The beans were heroic: sweet, slightly sour, and satisfyingly dense. I’m still dreaming of them now.
Ambient Indian music at a gentle volume soundtracked our chat as we ate. Keen to soak up the atmosphere a little bit longer, we ordered a mango sorbet and a mint tea to round things off. Savouring the delightfully contrasting flavours of the zingy sorbet, we had a visit from Bandook’s Founder and Managing Director, Moe Rahman. Moe tells us with a smile that his team is running a campaign where the restaurant donates a breakfast to a child in need with each breakfast bought. The perfect initiative to underscore this establishment’s core value of connection.
Satisfied and cheerful, Rosanna and I readied ourselves to head back out into the world, both agreeing the magic of Bandook’s breakfast is in the love behind it – these dishes sing with cultural unity. As we wandered out of Bandook, we spotted a family with a son in a graduation gown tucking into their own breakfast. A fittingly special occasion to match a truly special breakfast.
Bandook Restaurant, Milsom Place,
3-7 Milsom St, Bath BA1 1BZ. bandookkitchen.com
Breakfast is served from 10am-12pm (Tuesday-Sunday).